Category: Korean (Page 4 of 4)

Bucket List Chronicles Part I: Take-out from Hoban

Hoban Korean Cuisine
1989 Silver Bell Road
Eagan, MN
651-688-3447

As recently mentioned in my bucket list titled “A taste of our favorites/Our loyal rotation,” Jake and I wanted take-out from Hoban before we leave for Fargo near the end of next month.

We spent a large portion of our day deep-cleaning the condo before it’s first showing next Monday.  Two weeks has not allowed for much time to get our place ready to be listed and we are doing our best to speed pack.  Thank you to Brenda, Jake’s mom who spent hours helping us clean and pack.  Brenda also brought over cupcakes that I actually liked.  Quite a bit.

In the evening, we called in an order at Hoban.  I ate my Korean food locked in the ventilated bedroom hiding from the oven’s self-cleaning fumes.  Jake did not bat an eye as he sat amongst the fumes.

Hoban packed up banchan including sweet and chewy chunks of creamy potato, pickled radish, kimchee, crunchy pickled cucumbers, sweet marinated bean sprouts, and pickled radish-carrot slaw.

I love pickled vegetable and I love banchan, but my favorites were the cucumbers, bean sprouts and kimchee.  Everything tasted especially fresh and crunchy this evening.

I’ve always enjoyed kimchee.

Jake doesn’t crave kimchee or go out of his way to eat kimchee, but enjoyed it on his first taste.  I usually order some kind of jun, or Korean pancake.  My favorite is the meat jun stuffed with beef bulgogi, but tonight I ordered a kimchee jun.

The kimchee pancake was kind of soggy and I am not sure if that’s because it was packed in to-go containers, but we enjoyed it regardless.  Kimchee was stuffed between the soft pancake layers, accompanied by a soy sauce dip flavored with green onion, sesame, and red pepper.  Comforting and fun to eat.

Jake’s favorite dish at Hoban is their pork bulgogi.  On some days, it’s quite spicy and on others it’s tame.  I find that their pork bokum is spicier since it includes stir fried jalapeno slices.  Tonight, the pork bulgogi was tasty, but on the mild side.  It is served on top of mushrooms and raw onions slices.  The mushrooms tasted past their prime, but I always enjoy alternating bites of grilled meat with raw onion.

We both considered the the Kal bi the showstopper of the evening.  The beef short ribs tasted of marinade and smoke.  They were a mix of chewy, fatty, tender, and char.  This may sound unappealing, but we enjoyed the contrasting textures, the flavor of the melting fat, and cleaned the short ribs to the bone.  I appreciated that the marinade was not cloyingly sweet and that every once in a while, I bit into a nub of crispy, charred fat.  The short ribs were also served on a bed of raw onion slices.

Half of the kal bi and pork bulgogi’s take-out containers were filled with steamed rice.  We also received another small container of more steamed rice.  Rice overkill, but I often turn leftover steamed rice into homemade fried rice.  Our total bill came to about $40 including tax.

My comparison of Hoban to local Korean Restaurants
Of the local Korean restaurants I have tried, Sole Cafe was the spiciest, most complexly flavored, and most generously portioned.  However, I liked that Hoban’s short ribs were not as sweet (although Sole Cafe’s were also delicious).  I really only love Mirror of Korea for their mandu, which is better than Hoban and Dong Yang.  I have enjoyed Dong Yang in Colombia Heights, but don’t crave it enough to make the drive.  However, Dong Yang made a really delicious, corpulently stuffed jun filled a variety of seafood ranging from shrimp to octopus.  I found Dong Yang’s pork bulgogi to be more thickly cut, saucy, and fatty.  The fat was rendered until crisp, almost like bacon, but the sauce struck me as sweeter and less spicy.  

Stay tuned for Bucket List Chronicles Part II. . .

    Sole Cafe: Like a Korean Love Song

    April 29, 2011
    Sole Cafe
    684 Snelling Ave. N
    St. Paul, MN 55104
    651-644-2068

    I know that I am not alone in recalling fuzzy summer memories of Korean Culture camp during my elementary school years.  According to the Korean Institute of Minnesota, I am one of approximately 15,000 Korean adoptees living in Minnesota.  I remember dreading the idea of wearing my traditional hanbok and performing the “fan dance,”so I opted for Taekwondo with the boys, instead.

    However, I do remember looking forward to the Korean cafeteria lunch.  To this day, I recall savoring kimchee and homemade mandu which could be bought by the frozen freezer bag on the last day of camp.  This version of mandu stuffed sesame oil-flecked ground beef filling into triangles of thick, deep fried wrappers.  It became my internal gold standard against which I measure all mandu and I will be damned if I can find an equivalent.

    As I grew into adolescence I became increasingly awkward about being adopted; As an adult, I am less self-conscious and more curious.  My mom passed away from cancer a couple years ago and when I feel the primal need for a sense of mothering and connection with my roots, I may visit a Korean restaurant.

    Banchan

    We received five types of banchan including mild, marinated bean sprouts, seaweed salad, chewy fish cake strips, savory tofu squares with a sweet and spicy sauce, and kimchi, my favorite banchan.
    Kimchi
     
    The kimchi at Sole Cafe is crisp and fresh.  It is also much spicier and less musty than versions I’ve tasted at Hoban and Dong Yang.  Vibrant is the best word to describe this kimchi.
    I also enjoyed these chewy squares of tofu in a sweet and spicy soy-chili marinade.
    Mackerel in a spicy sauce
     
    Jake and I wanted to try one of the less Western items on the menu.  We religiously watch Bizarre Foods, determined to grow our food courage and expand our appreciation for under-appreciated foods. In my haste, I forgot to record exact prices, but believe this entree was $14.95.  This large platter includes mackerel fillets, silky squares of soft tofu, and slices of some kind of yellow vegetable.  This vegetable was soft and salty and I would venture to guess it was pickled radish.
    Mackerel close-up
     
    Jake had never tried mackerel while I have only tried it once.  The previous mackerel I ordered at a Japanese restaurant was intensely fishy, and the skin unbearable so.  In contrast, this mackerel had a clean aftertaste and I had no problem eating the skin.  The spicy sauce complimented the stronger, oilier character of the mackerel.
     
    Squid stir-fry
    I believe the cost of this entree was $12.95.  I adored the smoky, spicy, sweet flavor of this sauce.  To our delight, the spice level of this sauce had us sweating bullets and wiping our noses.  The sauce was complex, far from the one-note sauces one tires of after several bites.  This stir fry was overflowing with tender strips of scored calamari, zuchinni, onions, scallions and whole red chiles.  I noticed a thin strip of membrane on some of the calamari strips that, when peeled, made chewing much easier.
    Galbi short ribs
    This platter of $20 beef short ribs was well worth the price.  The galbi was delightfully lacquered in a caramelized, sweet glaze.  I enjoyed navigating through tender meat, chewy gristle, melting fat, and bone.
    To conclude, our final bill was $62 including two bottles of Miller Golden Light (there were only two types of beer in stock).  Unfortunately, I do not have an itemized receipt and it would seem that each bottle was approximately $4-5 each.  I was thrilled with the quality of the food. Eating at Sole Cafe was effortless, like eating dinner at the house of the Korean grandmother or mother I wish I had.
    After paying our bill, we walked into the cool night air, burning from the inside-out and breathing fire.  I couldn’t have been more satisfied.
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